WILLIAM IVEY LONG:  BETWEEN TASTE AND TRAVESTY

LONG:
     "The display cases show the process from initial idea to finished costume. There are research boards, which are the first visual tools used, as well as rough thumbnail sketches to show initial ideas to the director, choreographer, and design team. For communication with the costume makers, sometimes a vintage garment is a helpful tool for pattern development to show specific dressmaker details and seaming placement.

     The undergarments are also a very important – although seldom seen – part of the process as they establish the base shape of the garment. This would include corsets, slips, petticoats, bloomers, as well as brassieres and other foundations.

     Once the pattern is made, a muslin mock-up version of the design is sewn up for a first fitting. This allows freedom to alter and fit the garment without cutting up the expensive fashion fabrics. Once this fitting takes place, the muslin is taken apart, the pattern is altered, and then the costume is cut and sewn in the final fabrics. A second fitting with accessories and final shoes (crucial for determining hem lengths) helps the look come together. Further adjustments are then made, and the actor has a final fitting to check all o fthe details before the costume goes on stage."

©2010 WILLIAM IVEY LONG STUDIOS